Friday, March 13, 2009

4 STEPS TO A PERFECT SHAVE

1) Wet shaving

It's best not to shave first thing in the morning as your face will be puffy.

Ideally take a shower before shaving, if this is not possible wash your face for a few minutes before. The cleaning removes dirt, oil, and dead skin and any other debris that can get between your skin and the razor, the hot (not scolding) water will soften the whiskers open the pores and relax your facial muscles. Keeping your face wet before and during the shave puts a layer of water between your face and the lather, the blade will skim the surface instead of dragging and tugging, dragging means the hair is not being neatly sliced and will cause irritation, redness, and bumps.


2) Shaving cream and brush

Stop using your fingers to smear cheap shaving gel that smells like deodorant on your face.

Use a good quality glycerin-based shave cream which lubricates and protects the skin. Watch out for products containing irritating ingredients such as alcohol, menthol, mint, and camphor. Also beware of potassium or sodium hydroxide, they are designed to force the hair up and away from the skin by making the hair follicle and skin swell, supposedly for a closer shave, but because of the swollen skin some of the hair will be hidden, when the skin deflates, hairs may become trapped under the skin causing ingrowing hairs.

As always if a product burns, irritates, tingles, causes the skin to become inflamed, or hurts, don't use it.

Use a good shaving brush, the best brushes are made of badger hair. Dip the tip of the brush in hot water, it will absorbs the water and then when you whip the shaving cream up releases and mixes water with the shaving cream, this delivers a thicker, richer, more emollient lather.

When you apply, skim the brush back and forth across your face and neck in and up-down motion, the up-down brushing lifts your whiskers and suspends them standing upright in the thick lather exposing the maximum whisker length to your blade as it skims along your face.


3) The razor

The basics are:

  • Disposables; the quality of the blades usually isn't good making then very hard on your skin, not recommended.

  • Cartridge razors; a better choice, the Gillette Mack 3 is the most popular and defiantly one of the better ones.

  • Double edge safety razor, you'll get a closer and more comfortable shaves than with a cartridge razor, but handle with care. See Double Edge Safety Razors

  • The classic cut throat razor for the most adventurous. See Cut Throat Razors

Which ever razor you choose, use a sharp, clean razor (if your using a safety or cartridge razor change blades every three to four uses, depending how heavy your beards is). Begin shaving in the direction of the hair growth, shave first in the places where the whisker are not at their thickest, this ensures the thicker whisker a little longer to be softened by the shave cream and hot water on your face. Whist shaving keep the razor clear by frequently rinsing it with hot water. If you want a closer shave, wet your face again, lather up again, and shave very lightly against the direction of the hair growth. Go gently, many men find shaving against the grain causes redness, razor burn, and ingrown hairs.

4) Aftershave lotion or moisturiser

When you've finished shaving, wash off any remaining shaving cream by splashing cool water on your face this will close pores calm the skin, and invigorate . Pat skin dry (do not rub-rubbing can irritate freshly shaven skin).

Finish by applying a moisturiser to replace the moisture you just scraped away or a shaving lotion (these are basically just gentle toners) Avoid applying any products with alcohol.

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